SYSTEMA NATVRAE BY CARIAGGI: THE EXTRAORDINARY POWER OF OFFICINAL PLANTS


From an agronomic research on the Woad in Italy, curated by Massimo Baldini of the Museum of Natural Colors in Lamoli, and thanks also to historical documents, the knowledge on the cultivation of ancient dyeing plants has been recovered, they had been used since the times of the ancient Romans and in the Middle Ages.

In 2008, the Oasicolori cooperative was established by the will of Massimo Baldini, with the aim of introducing natural dyes in the textile and manufacturing sector. This is where the collaboration between Oasicolori and Cariaggi was born to support the development of the vegetable dyes supply chain.


Cariaggi di Cagli, a spinning mill in the Marche region, specializing in the processing of cashmere, has included the Woad and other dyeing plants within its "Systema Natvrae" line. Systema Naturae takes back this technique of the past of true, "slow" dyeing, where each process is unique and unrepeatable, representing an example of the company's important green commitment, as well as Made in Italy excellence..



The colors of the dyeing officinal plants are obtained exclusively by herbs - flowers - leaves - berries - roots: it is a natural dye where no chemical adjuvant is used. The final result is a natural yarn dyed with an environmentally friendly process, a unique and unconventional color chart. The artisan quality achieved, the uniqueness and chromatic beauty of the colors, the harmonious perception of light on the yarn, distinguishes Systema Naturae cashmere, making it recognizable as authentic and exclusive.


Bottegiani, taking an example from the "green" commitment of Systema Naturae by Cariaggi, creates a limited edition capsule of garments made by dyes obtained by Guado, by Weld and by Madder, creating a collection that ranges from shades of blue to yellow to red. The result is cashmere garments, whose natural yarns have been dyed with an environmentally friendly process, where each dye is unique and unrepeatable and it expresses the imperfection of beauty.



The Woad, or Isatis Tinctoria, has a place of excellence among dyeing plants, it was popular throughout Europe until the 17th century, where it was used to colour fabrics and to decorate books, and used by many painter as Piero della Francesca in their painting. Since the 14th century, it has been the only colouring agent able to create shades ranging from blue through to a light blue of the highest quality, both in colour terms and also of its fastness to light and wear resistance. For these characteristics it was called "blue gold". Over the centuries, the Woad was then replaced by Indigo, which had the advantage of having a simpler and cheaper extraction method. It returned to use with Napoleon, who chose it to dye the uniforms of his army, as its extreme versatility made it suitable for dyeing all types of fabrics, from the most modest to the most refined.

The Weld, or Reseda Luteola, is a herbaceous plant, its leaves and stem contain luteolin, a flavone from which a very precious yellow dye can be extracted. Studies and testimonies trace the use of Weld back to the Neolithic age, and it was also present in Renaissance yarns throughout Europe.








The Madder, or Rubia Tinctorium, is a perennial herb, from whose roots, harvested in autumn, the red dye is extracted. The soil on which the plant is grown has a significant effects on the shades of the red colour produced: scarlet red from plants grown in soil rich with humus and brick red when the plants grows in soil. rich with clay. Presence of this dye has been found in Renaissance tapestries but also in the dye-works in Pompei The red of the Madder was the most common color used in ancient European civilizations.





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